Eco One

Step One: (changing over to Eco One)

    1. Remove filters from the filter housing (deep clean them and sanitize or use new filters). If your spa water is clean then do not drain. If you have been using the water and or have bromine in it, drain and start with fresh water.   When filling a spa make sure not to use a water softener. pH 8.0; 95 degrees to 105;Add one bottle of "Pipe Cleaner".  Over fill (3 inches from top), the spa to make sure the cleaner gets in all parts.
    2. With all blowers and jets on full, let Step 1, Pipe Cleaner circulate at least 30 minutes 2 times in for 24 hours.  (Next day at 18 hours is OK if the spa is left to circulate)
    3. Drain the spa and clean out all the old water.  Fill spa and insert filters. Once water is up to temperature add one bottle of "Monthly Spa Treatment". (large spas add two)
    4. Repeat Step one (do not drain) every six months 2 hours before draining your old water. Simply pour it into the water before you drain and let it circulate.
    5. Add "Enzyme filter booster". Per instructions on bottle. Two capfuls by the fiter.
    6. It works best with plenty of ozone, to keep from having to add chlorine.
    7. You can use a small amount of Instant Ions with Eco One.  about .2 to.3 PPM

Weekly:

    1. Check pH and Total Alkalinity make any necessary adjustments. Slowly raise the pH to 7.8 then test again in a few days.

PH = 7.8 to 8.4 , 8.2 aim. TA = 80 to 120

Monthly:

    1. Clean filters with high-pressured water, soak in water (1 Gal. to 1/4 cup) bleach solution ten minutes. Insert clean filters and add 2 capfuls of the Enzyme filter booster near filter housing while running.
    2. Add one bottle of the "Monthly Eco One Treatment"

Six Months:

    1. Deep clean the filters and put the clean ones in the spa.

Follow the instruction on the ionizer page at the bottom for filter care and after six months. Now pasted here.

Anytime:

Anytime that you may find that your water is hazy add 1 teaspoon

Chlorine and 1 tablespoon of shock.  If it is close to 4 weeks just add the Monthly.  Long filtering is important.

Notes: Do not use bromine. Do not use any clarifiers, and Spa Defender or other chemicals with Eco One. If you have questions please call or email for help. Info@spaspecialist.com.

We do not recommend using any of the oil based fragrances. You can use the powdered ones.

Every Three to Five Weeks:
Spray the filter cartridge with a high pressure COLD WATER nozzle. Spray in
between each pleat in an up and down motion. NEVER USE HOT WATER ON A SPA
FILTER! NO CAR WASHES, OR DISH WASHERS! IT PERMANENTLY RUINS THEM! ( Do
not use cleaners, unless the filter is really clogged, because it opens the
filter fibers, making the filter less effective. Wait for your drain and
fill time: 3 to 6 mo. )  Soak the filters in a solution of household bleach and water for three minutes each.
1/4 cup to one gallon.  Rinse and put them back in the spa.  Wear rubber gloves and an apron so you don't bleach
your clothing or irritate your skin.  ( Be sure that no debris gets into the intake to the water pumps, when you remove the filters.)

Every One to Three Months:
Treat your spa cover with a recommended conditioner. Inside use 6 months
to one year. Do not use Armorall, Son of a Gun or other cheap products.
They dissolves your cover and have very little UV protectant. Also they
invalidate your spa cover warranty. Do use 303 Protectant.

Every Three to Six Months at drain and fill time:
Exchange the filter for the spare one. Add 4 ounces Sea Klear 4 in 1
clarifier to the spa water and let it circulate. Spray off and then place
the dirty filter in a Filter Cleanse solution for at least 12 hours.
Remove and THOROUGHLY rinse the filter. Let it dry, so the fibers have a
chance to normalize.  Clean the jets as needed (see below). Check the pump and heater
union couplings for leaks while you have the front panel removed.
If you have little children, and no place to keep a bucket of spa filter cleaner, then
use only automatic dish soap like Cascade. 1 Cup in 5 gallons.  Spray off with the cold water
spray, then spray with "Minute Rinse" and spray off again.

Every Six Months to 12 months Outside use Maximum:
Stain redwood cabinet with an appropriate color stain. Super Deck is an
excellent brand of stain, and protects against Colorado's high UV sunlight
on your wood. For other woods, consult manufacturer.

Once a year:
Take the cores out of the cover and clean them with a solution of hand one
teaspoon dishwashing soap and 1/4 cup household bleach per gallon of water.
 Wear rubber gloves!
Turn the cover "skin"  inside out and wash the inside then rinse it..   Wash the plastic
cover over the cores rinse it off.
Carefully check over the  plastic core cover for any moisture leaks.  I recommend a vinyl patch or industrial, waterproof duct tape.  If the cores have gotten wet, I suggest that you allow them to dry.  Remove the plastic cover carefully and let them dry for a few days out of the wind.  Then place the cores back in the plastic and tape it shut with waterproof duct tape.  The number one cause of cover failure is the cores becoming saturated.  It normally takes two people to get the cores back in, carefully.

Important for the life of the jet pumps: Check the jet pumps for any water seepage showing between the motor and the wet end of the jet pump.  There is a "shaft seal" that seals the water inside the pump housing (wet end).  If it starts leaking it can ruin the motor if not caught soon enough.  The cost to replace a pump that has been ruined by water is from $450 to $700 for the extreme pumps.   A seal kit job is about $50 per pump.  The shaft seals have a different warranty of 1 or  2 years, because they are normal maintenance, similar to an oil change in your car. (If the shaft seal caused the motor to be rusted out, then the warranty on the motor is void by lack of care.)

Check the union nuts on the pumps and heater.  Those are the hook ups to the plumbing pipes with nuts that can be tightened.  This is also  not covered under warranty because they will in time start to seep and need to be tightened.

Cleaning the Spa Jets:

The jets will need cleaning depending upon the conditions of use.  If you are in a dusty environment, like Colorado near a construction site (the worst), you will need to remove the jet inserts and clean them.  Under normal condition this is at least once a year.    You can tell that the jets are dirty by the jets not spinning.  The bearings will start to have restricted movement due to debris in the bearings.  The jet inserts will have trouble turning on and off if there is debris between the body and the jet body wall.

The quick fix with a new spa and new jets that have debris:

1/ Remove the jet and  place the jet front on the jet body.   Turn it around and force water back through the jet.
This can often remove enough debris to get the jet to turn.  Feel the freedom of spin by holding the jet on in hand and
spin the nozzle.  The nozzle should continue to spin after you stop applying force to the nozzle.  It should spin freely.

NOTE:  The large cyclone or storm jets are removed by turning the face forcefully counterclockwise until it clicks.  Then
Pull the jet straight out.

The medium size storm jets are removed the same way.

The smaller storm jets are removed by the same method, but sometimes you may need to pry gently up on the jet face while you  turn counter clockwise.
I recommend using a flat blade screwdriver wrapped in duct tap to protect the surface.

The Luxury jet series are removed by depressing the release pin towards the center of the jet body.  This will allow the insert to be pulled from the  jet
body.  If it is really stuck by debris, then pry while gently turning and pulling with two screwdrivers one on each side wrapped in duct tape.

On the WaterWay "poly jet" turn the face of the jet counterclockwise until it is released from the threads, then pull straight out.

Standard cleaning of any jet insert:
(recommended at least yearly)

Remove the jets from the spa and place them in a bucket of cleaning solution.   I recommend using Cascade automatic dishwashing soap and water in a 5 gallon paint bucket.  Use one cup of Cascade to 5 gallons of water and soak for at least on hour.

Then take each jet and agitate by hand up and down in the Cascade solution (wear rubber gloves).

Spray with a kitchen sink sprayer back through the jet body while spinning the jets and turning the action on the jet insert.  You  will notice an immediate free
spinning action as the bearings become clean and rinsed.  This puts them back in the almost new condition.

If you have sand in your area, it can lodge in between the jet insert and the jet body (and in the bearings).  This can cause the plastic to have raised grooves that will restrict the movement of the jet insert in the jet body.  The simply cure is to gently smooth the raised grooved areas with a sharp knife to gently shave the raised area or 100 grit, wet or dry, sand paper.  Rinse the body and the jet insert to remove any of the tiny plastic shavings or the sand from the jets.   Some times the rough plastic is on both the jet body and the insert.   To smooth the jet body use the sharp knife and gently shave the jet body where the insert contacts.  If the spa is empty, rinse out each jet body with a garden hose and shop vac the water out of each jet body and the spa vessel.
If the spa is full of water run the jet pump to blow out the debris from the jet body.  The filter will catch the debris.

After you smooth the jet body or the insert, feel it with your finger for smoothness.  If you feel any "bumps" then shave or sand it a bit more.

MORE ON JET CONCERNS

If you have any questions on how to do any of the procedures for cleaning the jets, call or email