Step One: (changing
over to Eco One)
PH = 7.8 to 8.4 , 8.2 aim. TA = 80 to 120
Follow the instruction on
the ionizer page
at the bottom for filter
care and after six
months. Now pasted here.
Anytime that you may find that your water is hazy add 1 teaspoon
Chlorine and 1 tablespoon of shock. If it
close to 4 weeks just add the Monthly. Long filtering is
Notes: Do not use bromine. Do not use any clarifiers, and Spa Defender or other chemicals with Eco One. If you have questions please call or email for help. Info@spaspecialist.com.
We do not recommend using any of the oil based
You can use the powdered ones.
Every Three to Five Weeks:
Spray the filter cartridge with a high pressure COLD WATER nozzle. Spray in
between each pleat in an up and down motion. NEVER USE HOT WATER ON A SPA
FILTER! NO CAR WASHES, OR DISH WASHERS! IT PERMANENTLY RUINS THEM! ( Do
not use cleaners, unless the filter is really clogged, because it opens the
filter fibers, making the filter less effective. Wait for your drain and
fill time: 3 to 6 mo. ) Soak the filters in a solution of household bleach and water for three minutes each.
1/4 cup to one gallon. Rinse and put them back in the spa. Wear rubber gloves and an apron so you don't bleach
your clothing or irritate your skin. ( Be sure that no debris gets into the intake to the water pumps, when you remove the filters.)
Every One to Three Months:
Treat your spa cover with a recommended conditioner. Inside use 6 months
to one year. Do not use Armorall, Son of a Gun or other cheap products.
They dissolves your cover and have very little UV protectant. Also they
invalidate your spa cover warranty. Do use 303 Protectant.
Every Three to Six Months at drain and fill time:
Exchange the filter for the spare one. Add 4 ounces Sea Klear 4 in 1
clarifier to the spa water and let it circulate. Spray off and then place
the dirty filter in a Filter Cleanse solution for at least 12 hours.
Remove and THOROUGHLY rinse the filter. Let it dry, so the fibers have a
chance to normalize. Clean the jets as needed (see below). Check the pump and heater
union couplings for leaks while you have the front panel removed.
If you have little children, and no place to keep a bucket of spa filter cleaner, then
use only automatic dish soap like Cascade. 1 Cup in 5 gallons. Spray off with the cold water
spray, then spray with "Minute Rinse" and spray off again.
Every Six Months to 12 months Outside use Maximum:
Stain redwood cabinet with an appropriate color stain. Super Deck is an
excellent brand of stain, and protects against Colorado's high UV sunlight
on your wood. For other woods, consult manufacturer.
Once a year:
Take the cores out of the cover and clean them with a solution of hand one
teaspoon dishwashing soap and 1/4 cup household bleach per gallon of water.
Wear rubber gloves!
Turn the cover "skin" inside out and wash the inside then rinse it.. Wash the plastic
cover over the cores rinse it off.
Carefully check over the plastic core cover for any moisture leaks. I recommend a vinyl patch or industrial, waterproof duct tape. If the cores have gotten wet, I suggest that you allow them to dry. Remove the plastic cover carefully and let them dry for a few days out of the wind. Then place the cores back in the plastic and tape it shut with waterproof duct tape. The number one cause of cover failure is the cores becoming saturated. It normally takes two people to get the cores back in, carefully.
Important for the life of the
pumps: Check the jet pumps for any water seepage showing
the motor and the wet end of the jet pump. There is a "shaft
seal" that seals the water inside the pump housing (wet
it starts leaking it can ruin the motor if not caught soon
enough. The cost to replace a pump that has been ruined by
is from $450 to $700 for the extreme pumps. A seal kit
is about $50 per pump. The shaft seals have a different
of 1 or 2 years, because they are normal maintenance,
an oil change in your car. (If the shaft seal caused the motor to
rusted out, then the warranty on the motor is void by lack of
Check the union nuts on the pumps and heater. Those are the
hook ups to the plumbing pipes with nuts that can be
This is also not covered under warranty because they will in
start to seep and need to be tightened.
Cleaning the Spa Jets:
The jets will need cleaning depending upon the conditions of use.
If you are in a dusty environment, like Colorado near a
construction site (the worst), you will need to remove the jet
and clean them. Under normal condition this is at least once
year. You can tell that the jets are dirty by the
spinning. The bearings will start to have restricted
to debris in the bearings. The jet inserts will have trouble
turning on and off if there is debris between the body and the jet
The quick fix with a new spa and new jets that have debris:
1/ Remove the jet and place the jet front on the jet body.
Turn it around and force water back through the jet.
This can often remove enough debris to get the jet to turn. Feel the freedom of spin by holding the jet on in hand and
spin the nozzle. The nozzle should continue to spin after you stop applying force to the nozzle. It should spin freely.
NOTE: The large cyclone or storm jets are removed by
the face forcefully counterclockwise until it clicks. Then
Pull the jet straight out.
The medium size storm jets are removed the same way.
The smaller storm jets are removed by the same method, but
you may need to pry gently up on the jet face while you turn
I recommend using a flat blade screwdriver wrapped in duct tap to protect the surface.
The Luxury jet series are removed by depressing the release pin
towards the center of the jet body. This will allow the
be pulled from the jet
body. If it is really stuck by debris, then pry while gently turning and pulling with two screwdrivers one on each side wrapped in duct tape.
On the WaterWay "poly jet" turn the face of the jet
until it is released from the threads, then pull straight out.
Standard cleaning of any jet insert:
(recommended at least yearly)
Remove the jets from the spa and place them in a bucket of
solution. I recommend using Cascade automatic dishwashing
and water in a 5 gallon paint bucket. Use one cup of Cascade
gallons of water and soak for at least on hour.
Then take each jet and agitate by hand up and down in the Cascade
solution (wear rubber gloves).
Spray with a kitchen sink sprayer back through the jet body while
spinning the jets and turning the action on the jet insert.
will notice an immediate free
spinning action as the bearings become clean and rinsed. This puts them back in the almost new condition.
If you have sand in your area, it can lodge in between the jet
insert and the jet body (and in the bearings). This can
plastic to have raised grooves that will restrict the movement of
jet insert in the jet body. The simply cure is to gently
the raised grooved areas with a sharp knife to gently shave the
area or 100 grit, wet or dry, sand paper. Rinse the body and
jet insert to remove any of the tiny plastic shavings or the sand
the jets. Some times the rough plastic is on both the jet
and the insert. To smooth the jet body use the sharp knife
gently shave the jet body where the insert contacts. If the
is empty, rinse out each jet body with a garden hose and shop vac
water out of each jet body and the spa vessel.
If the spa is full of water run the jet pump to blow out the debris from the jet body. The filter will catch the debris.
After you smooth the jet body or the insert, feel it with your
finger for smoothness. If you feel any "bumps" then shave or
it a bit more.
MORE ON JET
If you have any questions on how to do any of the procedures for
cleaning the jets, call or email