Instructions for Using the Havenmade Inc. Ion System
copyright Havenmade Inc 1997-2008
Copper/Silver power ionizer.
To see the list of recommended
supplies and order on line
Filling Instructions With copper/silver ionizer and Instant Ions ; update 2008
Click Here for Quick Start Instructions.
Never use bromine or bromine granular, "Enhance" or other bromide
with the Copper/Silver ionized water! Never get into a spa with cloudy water
without finding out why! Do not use any products unless you are sure they are compatible
with the copper and silver ions. (Do not use regular clarifiers or any of the liquid pH balancers!)
All measurements of teaspoons and tablespoons are to be exact. Use only MEASURING SPOONS, not
(When you have really messed up the water
and have continual problems with reoccuring biofilm.CLICK HERE)
for the tests are as follows:
Recommended List off Spa Care Supplies.
1. When either draining or filling your spa, always turn off the
power by switching off the breaker or switching off the disconnect.
2. Fill the spa with a garden hose, using either cold or warm water
115 degrees F.) . Never fill straight from a hot water faucet, which can
exceed the manufacturer's recommended temperatures. Do not use water softened water unless you
consult us first. There are several problems with using soft water. If you have well water or just not good warter,
then use a pre filter on the water hose.
If you have a filter/skimmer combination housing, fill the filter
If you have a water source
with metals, or particles in it, you can use a filter on the end of the hose. Be sure to remove any
"AIR LOCKS" from the pumps to insure proper water flow.
3. If you have a dial thermostat, turn it down all the way. This is
protect the heater in case there is an air pocket upon startup.
4. Run the jets on full to allow all of the air to be removed from
lower plumbing and bleed air locks as needed. Once you have full jet circulation, turn up the thermostat,
or set the digital temperature. I recommend 102 deg; to start. Don't run the pumps for more than a minute without
good water flow showing at the jets. Dry pumps can cause shaft seal damage. Remove the air locks.
5, Set the filter pump to circulate for 6 to 8 hours per day, (On
smaller, under 250 gal., as little as 4 hours.) either continuously, or in
two separate filter times. On start up always use Standard mode on spas
with standard/economy switching. Always set the filtering times to not filter
during the heat of the day. We recommend 5 PM to 7 PM and 5AM to 7AM as good starting times.
The Super Custom spas do not need any long filter times (set them to 1 Hr one time) because the smaller circulation pump does the
filtering. You can set the filter to "Off" on the SC and SE models prior to 2006. If you do not run the blower or the jet pumps by using the spa for any extended times beyond a week, then you can program in 1 hour. Avoid any use of the main jet pump for filteing in summer. It can cause the temperature of the spa to rise above the set point. In extreme summer above 95 degrees, you may need to prop open the cover and let heat out. On the 2006 models set the filtering to "F 12" and it can be adjusted down in hot summer to as low as "F 06".
6. With the jets on high, add 2 ounces of a stain and scale product
as Spa Defender. Follow instructions for your particular brand of metal
and stain protection product. If you have iron or magnanese in the water, filter it, and be sure to use
Metal Gone and wait one week before using the "Instant Ions".
8. Optional: With the jets on high, add
pH Magic and let circulate
minutes. Put jets on low speed or turn on only the circulation pump. Use
the whole 3 Lbs for 300 gals or more. Use 1/2 for less gallons. This will
help stabilize the pH.
Do not use any of the liquid pH balancers. They will eventually harm your spa.
9. Place the floating cover and hard cover on the spa, and let it
the filter pump. In extreme heat, do not use the thermal blanket.
10. Add one tablespoon
gallons. Bring copper to about 0.5 PPM to 0.7 PPM (0.6 PPM ideal). If you
overdo it there is no cause for concern, but it can add a green copper ion
precipitant to the spa surface, which wipes off easily. Proper pH is important to
hold the ions in suspension. A high pH will precipitate the ions. Below .4PPM the water may
not be safe.
next Spa Care Class.
(form: Filling instructions Copper/Silver 2-2000)
This Guide is a reference for spa owners. The schedule below
average use of the spa which is three times per week in a 350 gallon spa,
with four people. If your individual use is more or less, you can adjust
the frequency of the
maintenance to fit the actual volume of water and usage.
Suggested Scheduled Spa Maintenance with Silver&Copper Ionizer
Once a week:
Shock the spa water with ( three LEVEL tablespoons per 250 gallons GLENWOOD
4 TABLESPOONS, SPRINGVILLE 5 TABLESPOONS, FALLSBURG 6 TABLESPOONS) )
non chlorine shock and one teaspoon of dichlor powder (Chlorine
Concentrate), to remove organic wastes. Wait a minimum of 1 hour after
shocking, then proceed with test below.. Leave the cover open a minimum of
15 minutes and the jets running.
Do not shock at the same time you put in Spa Defender or 4 in 1 clarifier.
Do not put water clarifier in until you have adjusted the copper
Using Copper test kit, adjust copper in the water to proper level. Aim for
0.5 to 0.6 PPM range .4 to .7 PPM.
Wait until level drops close to 0.4 if you like. Place the ionizer in the
spa for 1/2 hour intervals then test. IF THE COPPER DROPS BELOW 0.3 BACTERIA
Add Spa DefenderTM approximately two ounces per 500 gals. If you are
different brand of stain and scale protection, follow the instructions that
came with the product. Be sure the product is ionizer compatible.
Add 2 ounces of SeaKlear 4 in 1 spa water clarifier the first week.
Then (one liquid ounce) three tablespoons/500gal each week thereafter. Be
sure to add this after adjusting the copper.
NOTE; Use one level tablespoon for 1/2 ounce of the dry powders pH
Alkalinity UP. (The actual measure is close to 3/4 of an ounce and it is set that way so you
can adjust both the pH down and the TA up at the same time. Since the pH down lowers TA and
TA up raises pH, we overdose in both directions at the same time. This way saves time and struggling. Use this method
only if you adjust them both at the same time. If the TA is way off or the pH is way off, get them closer then re-test and
adjust them both at the same time with the "tablespoon method".)
Use one level tablespoon for 3/4 ounce of pH up.
Using the Taylor test kit ( or a kit that accurately tests) adjust
total alkalinity (GREEN TEST) first then adjust the pH( aim for 7.2pH) range
(RED TEST) 7.0 to 7.5 Always use sodium carbonate pH up to raise the pH if
the Total Alkalinity is right and the pH is low. You can use citric acid or
dry acid, pH Down (sodium bisulfate) to lower pH. To stabilize pH only use
pH Magic. If pH rises above 7.8+ cloudiness and precipitation may occur,
but this is nothing to be concerned about. Just lower the pH. The copper
will precipitate and leave the level too low for safety if the pH is high! (The Spa
Defender help with this as well.)
Leave the cover open a minimum of 15 minutes and the jets running.
Do not shock at the same time you put in Spa Defender or clarifier.
Example on adjusting a spa that is way out of pH and TA balance:
About the "tablespoon method"
If you test the TA and the test is already red, that Means the water
zero TA. It needs to be green first. You will also have an
low pH. Adjust the TA first until it is about 60 PPM.
You will need to start with a level of total alkalinity so if it is red too begin with, put in about 4-5 tablespoons of TA up run the jets and test it again in 1/2 hour. Once you get a reading, say 30 PPM, then use the chart and adjust to 60 PPM using the tablespoon as 3/4 of an ounce this time. In a 400 gallon spa that would be .90 oz times 3 = 2.7 oz. 2.7 oz divided by .75 oz per tablespoon = 3.6 tablespoons.
Now after an hour of running the jet pumps on low or so, go test both the TA and the pH. Let's say that you get pH requiring 3 drops of acid demand, following the Taylor instructions (R0015 or R0005 depending on the kit) and the TA is 60 PPM requiring another .90 times 2 = 1.8 oz. Now you would put in 3 1/2 tablespoons of TA up (using 1/2 oz = 1 tablespoon) and 1.48 oz for the 3 drops = 3 Tablespoons and PUT THEM BOTH IN AT THE SAME TIME. The spa will be near perfection. in TA and pH of 80 PPM and 7.4 pH.
What we are doing is raising the TA above the aim point, then adjusting the pH to both lower the pH and the TA at the same time. If you use the tablespoon method and the spa is not way out of range, it takes less than 5 minutes to get the spa into perfect balance.
The Total Alkalinity is used as a sort of "crutch" to hold the pH from falling over the week between testing. If the TA does not cause the pH to raise a little (one or two drops of acid demand), then start with a higher TA number at least 10 PPM more until, you achieve a weekly pH rise.
If the pH is always 3 to 5 or more drops of acid demand per week,
start with a lower TA by at least 10 PPM.
After a while you should have a grip on how your particular
is responding to use and be able to have it not swing so far out of
A normal spa will have the TA drop about 20 PPM (measuring 60 PPM) to 30 PPM too low (measuring 50 PPM) and the pH raise about 2 to 3 drops of acid demand. If you can get it closer, by adjusting the TA start point, then do it. DO NOT FOLLOW THE NUMBERS IN THE INSTRUCTIONS FROM ANY OTHER SOURCE WHEN USING IONS.
The standard for bromine is to set the TA at 100 PPM. If you
that with copper and silver ions, the pH will get way too high and ruin
ions level, leaving the spa with no residual ions for safety.
TA is strictly used to help control the pH, so if you control the
to numbers that work for you, your spa will be so easy to care for.
Anytime you use excessive shock, it will cause
pH and TA to drop. If I have a party and have to use 3
spoons of shock and three teaspoons of chlorine, then I will test and
the water. If you don't have time to test and adjust, then put
about 1 tablespoon of Alkalinity Increaser for each three tablespoons
shock. This will offset the effect off the shock to lower TA and
More Details Click Here
Every Three to Five Weeks:
Spray the filter cartridge with a high pressure COLD WATER nozzle. Spray in
between each pleat in an up and down motion. NEVER USE HOT WATER ON A SPA
FILTER! NO CAR WASHES, OR DISH WASHERS! IT PERMANENTLY RUINS THEM! ( Do
not use cleaners, unless the filter is really clogged, because it opens the
filter fibers, making the filter less effective. Wait for your drain and
fill time: 3 to 6 mo. ) Soak the filters in a solution of household bleach and water for three minutes each.
1/4 cup to one gallon. Rinse and put them back in the spa. Wear rubber gloves and an apron so you don't bleach
your clothing or irritate your skin. ( Be sure that no debris gets into the intake to the water pumps, when you remove the filters.)
Every One to Three Months:
Treat your spa cover with a recommended conditioner. Inside use 6 months
to one year. Do not use Armorall, Son of a Gun or other cheap products.
They dissolves your cover and have very little UV protectant. Also they
invalidate your spa cover warranty. Do use 303 Protectant.
Every Three to Six Months at drain and fill time:
Exchange the filter for the spare one. Add 4 ounces Sea Klear 4 in 1
clarifier to the spa water and let it circulate. Spray off and then place
the dirty filter in a Filter Cleanse solution for at least 12 hours.
Remove and THOROUGHLY rinse the filter. Let it dry, so the fibers have a
chance to normalize. Clean the jets as needed (see below). Check the pump and heater
union couplings for leaks while you have the front panel removed.
If you have little children, and no place to keep a bucket of spa filter cleaner, then
use only automatic dish soap like Cascade. 1 Cup in 5 gallons. Spray off with the cold water
spray, then spray with "Minute Rinse" and spray off again.
Every Six Months to 12 months Outside use Maximum:
Stain redwood cabinet with an appropriate color stain. Super Deck is an
excellent brand of stain, and protects against Colorado's high UV sunlight
on your wood. For other woods, consult manufacturer.
Once a year:
Take the cores out of the cover and clean them with a solution of hand one
teaspoon dishwashing soap and 1/4 cup household bleach per gallon of water.
Wear rubber gloves!
Turn the cover "skin" inside out and wash the inside then rinse it.. Wash the plastic
cover over the cores rinse it off.
Carefully check over the plastic core cover for any moisture leaks. I recommend a vinyl patch or industrial, waterproof duct tape. If the cores have gotten wet, I suggest that you allow them to dry. Remove the plastic cover carefully and let them dry for a few days out of the wind. Then place the cores back in the plastic and tape it shut with waterproof duct tape. The number one cause of cover failure is the cores becoming saturated. It normally takes two people to get the cores back in, carefully.
Important for the life of the jet
pumps: Check the jet pumps for any water seepage showing between
the motor and the wet end of the jet pump. There is a "shaft
seal" that seals the water inside the pump housing (wet end). If
it starts leaking it can ruin the motor if not caught soon
enough. The cost to replace a pump that has been ruined by water
is from $450 to $700 for the extreme pumps. A seal kit job
is about $50 per pump. The shaft seals have a different warranty
of 1 or 2 years, because they are normal maintenance, similar to
an oil change in your car. (If the shaft seal caused the motor to be
rusted out, then the warranty on the motor is void by lack of care.)
Check the union nuts on the pumps and heater. Those are the
hook ups to the plumbing pipes with nuts that can be tightened.
This is also not covered under warranty because they will in time
start to seep and need to be tightened.
Cleaning the Spa Jets:
The jets will need cleaning depending upon the conditions of use.
If you are in a dusty environment, like Colorado near a
construction site (the worst), you will need to remove the jet inserts
and clean them. Under normal condition this is at least once a
year. You can tell
that the jets are dirty by the jets not spinning. The bearings
start to have restricted movement due to debris in the bearings.
jet inserts will have trouble turning on and off if there is debris
the body and the jet body wall.
The quick fix with a new spa and new jets that have debris:
1/ Remove the jet and place the jet front on the jet body.
Turn it around and force water back through the jet.
This can often remove enough debris to get the jet to turn. Feel the freedom of spin by holding the jet on in hand and
spin the nozzle. The nozzle should continue to spin after you stop applying force to the nozzle. It should spin freely.
NOTE: The large cyclone or storm jets are removed by turning
face forcefully counterclockwise until it clicks. Then
Pull the jet straight out.
The medium size storm jets are removed the same way.
The smaller storm jets are removed by the same method, but sometimes
you may need to pry gently up on the jet face while you turn
I recommend using a flat blade screwdriver wrapped in duct tap to protect the surface.
The Luxury jet series are removed by depressing the release pin
towards the center of the jet body. This will allow the insert to
be pulled from the jet
body. If it is really stuck by debris, then pry while gently turning and pulling with two screwdrivers one on each side wrapped in duct tape.
On the WaterWay "poly jet" turn the face of the jet counterclockwise
until it is released from the threads, then pull straight out.
Standard cleaning of any jet insert:
(recommended at least yearly)
Remove the jets from the spa and place them in a bucket of cleaning
solution. I recommend using Cascade automatic dishwashing soap
and water in
a 5 gallon paint bucket. Use one cup of Cascade to 5 gallons of
water and soak for at least on hour.
Then take each jet and agitate by hand up and down in the Cascade
solution (wear rubber gloves).
Spray with a kitchen sink sprayer back through the jet body while
spinning the jets and turning the action on the jet insert. You
notice an immediate free
spinning action as the bearings become clean and rinsed. This puts them back in the almost new condition.
If you have sand in your area, it can lodge in between the jet
and the jet body (and in the bearings). This can cause the
to have raised grooves that will restrict the movement of the jet
in the jet body. The simply cure is to gently smooth the raised
areas with a sharp knife to gently shave the raised area or 100 grit,
or dry, sand paper. Rinse the body and the jet insert to remove
of the tiny plastic shavings or the sand from the jets. Some
the rough plastic is on both the jet body and the insert. To
the jet body use the sharp knife and gently shave the jet body where
insert contacts. If the spa is empty, rinse out each jet body
a garden hose and shop vac the water out of each jet body and the spa
If the spa is full of water run the jet pump to blow out the debris from the jet body. The filter will catch the debris.
After you smooth the jet body or the insert, feel it with your
finger for smoothness. If you feel any "bumps" then shave or sand
it a bit more.
The Small Neck and shoulder jets need to be removed once in a while
wiped clean and apply Magic
Lube to the body of the jet.
ON JET CONCERNS
If you have any questions on how to do any of the procedures for
cleaning the jets, call or email